½cup(130g)tomato paste(the thick, concentrated kind sold in a tube or small can)
2pounds(900g)mushroomsideally 1 pound white mushrooms and 1 pound cremini mushrooms
1teaspoonsaltplus more to taste
¼teaspoonblack pepper
1tablespoonbalsamic vinegarplus more to taste
12ounces(340g)pastasuch as tagliatelle, fettuccine, or pappardelle
¼cup(25g)grated Parmesanfor serving, plus 1 handful basil leaves
Chop the vegetables: Pulse 2 pounds mushrooms in a food processor until coarsely chopped, working in 3 or 4 batches so they don’t turn into a paste. Transfer to a bowl.Pulse 1 large onion, 2 medium carrots, and 1 rib celery until coarsely chopped. No food processor? Chop everything with a sharp knife.
Build the flavor base: Heat 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often.Add 3 cloves garlic (grated), ½ teaspoon dried rosemary, 3 bay leaves, and ½ cup tomato paste. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring often, until the tomato paste darkens slightly.
Cook the mushrooms: Add the mushrooms, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Cook over medium-high heat for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.The mushrooms will release plenty of water. Keep cooking until the liquid evaporates and the ragu is thick, rich, and almost creamy.Stir in 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar and turn off the heat. Taste and adjust the salt and balsamic vinegar.
Toss with pasta: Cook 12 ounces pasta in salted boiling water according to the package directions. Before draining, save 1 cup of pasta water.Add the drained pasta to the ragu with about ¼ cup of pasta water. Toss over medium heat for a few seconds until the pasta is well coated. Serve with fresh basil and Parmesan if desired.
Substitutions
Extra virgin olive oil → Regular olive oil.
Onion → Yellow or white onion.
Garlic → Omit or add a little extra rosemary.
Driedrosemary → Finely chopped fresh rosemary.
Bay leaves → Omit if unavailable.
Mushrooms → White, cremini, portobello, or a mix.
Balsamic vinegar → Reduced-sodium soy sauce.
Fresh basil → Flat-leaf parsley.
Pasta → Tagliatelle, fettuccine, pappardelle, or rigatoni.
Tips
Pulse, don’t purée: Coarsely chop the mushrooms in batches.
Soften the soffritto: Give the onion, carrot, and celery time to build flavor.
Cook the tomato paste: Let it darken slightly for deeper flavor.
Cook off the liquid: Keep going until the ragu is thick and almost creamy.
Use a wide pan: More surface area helps mushroom moisture evaporate.
Add balsamic last: It brings sweetness, acidity, and savory depth.
Save pasta water: A splash helps the ragu cling to the pasta.
Finish in the sauce: Toss the pasta directly with the ragu before serving.
Remove the bay leaves: Take out all three before serving.
Store separately: Keep leftover ragu separate from pasta for the best texture.